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Why do you need to learn traditional rock climbing?
Outdoor enthusiasts who have participated in foreign mountainee training camp courses should understand that mountaineering courses will use traditional rock climbing as the main technical training. Why is this?
Many people saw this kind of lesson planning and they couldn't help but wonder. This kind of wondering and hesitation has actually reflected the uniqueness of the domestic mountaineering community, or the uniqueness of the international climbing community. That is, there is a clear distinction between climbing and rock climbing. The climber does not climb rock, and the climber does not climb.
Indeed, in the history of climbing from the past to the present, many mountain climbers who have successfully climbed Everest or other 8,000-meter mega-peaks often do not belong to climbers who often climb rock, but they also rely on their strong stamina and perseverance. The peak of the eight-kilometer peak of the summit and even the highest peak of the world. However, such a successful formula may not necessarily be extended to all 8,000-meter climbs, or adventure climbs.
Once there is no fixed rope on the climbing route, once there is no Sherpas to accompany it on the way, the lack of deep climbers can hardly be said to be difficult, and this is also the eight-kilometer climb in the country that is limited to relatively popular climbs over the years. The reasons for the goals, such as Mount Everest, Cho Oyu, Kishapangma, etc., and other six or seven kilometers of traditional routes. Because, on the climbing routes of these mountains, there are usually commercial teams that have already set up the fixed ropes. The climber only needs to buckle his ascents onto the climbing ropes. With his physical strength and perseverance, climbers can insist on climbing upwards.
Of course, such a climb also bears greater risks. Domestic climbers generally lack the advanced ability to climb traditionally. Under the technical gap, if we encounter the weaknesses of physical strength, experience and climate, it is not just a danger that can be described.
Looking back on the Himalayan mountaineering, the first summit team on the Broad Peak (8047m) in 2011 was the two famous Russian and French mountaineers who were fast and safe without ropes at all. Round-trip peaks and base camps. The first summit in 2012 was a Lithuanian climber who climbed alone to climb to the top before the Sherpas of other teams could not erect a fixed rope. 2013 first ascent of G2 and G1 (Gasherbrum I, II peak; 8080m, 8032m) is one of the climbers in Argentina, he is also a chance for all fixed ropes are set up before completing it Having achieved the summit alone, only his own feet and a pair of ice axes are relied upon.
These people, who have considerable traditional rock climbing (or ice climbing) abilities, can safely climb up and down the steep ice wall without a fixed rope. This is an ability that cannot be obtained in an artificial rock field, nor is it the ability to get through traditional cross-country running or expeditionary hikes. This is a completely different world.
This is undoubtedly the highest level of climbers. If you wish to continue to advance toward this goal and hope that you can come closer to your dreams and reach a higher level of climbing, it is absolutely impossible to find an excuse. The most commonly heard reason is usually that you do not need this ability to climb. But this is not really true.
This is really just a self-limited mentality. We can't just meet in our own little circle. We must really distinguish between what most climbers are doing just hiking. Internationally known as Trekking or Hiking. In fact, climbing instead of mountain climbing is really more in line with the definition of mountaineering in foreign countries, that is, “Mountaineeringâ€, a climbing activity that requires the use of advanced climbing ability and tools and rope operation capability, and is usually not used “walkingâ€. The terrain that can be solved, but must really use "climbing" activity patterns. The ability to climb is called "Climbing Mountaineering," but not only does it only climb clean protected rock walls, but it usually has to face complicated and changeable steep terrain, including rock walls or snow and ice, and has to try to use each Kind of protection method.
There is of course a lot of fun in walking through, but if you want to climb the mountain “Mountainering,†it’s another completely different world. You must cultivate different abilities.
If you have the opportunity to go hiking in the Himalayas, you will often encounter many climbers with 5.13 or even 5.14 climbing ability, but these people are always an ordinary appearance. Messner practiced rock climbing techniques on large cliffs in the Alps. He recently completed the Korean mountaineer Jin Changhao who had 14 horns of oxygen-free octogenarians. The first expedition was to climb the ridge of Pakistan's Tranko Tower (6286m). ). The Kawaguchi Tower is located on the Baltoro Glacier, a granite rock that falls more than two kilometers away.
How to climb and descend safely and confidently on ice slopes or rocks over fifty degrees above? This not only involves the use of the rope system, but also involves the ability to climb freely. It involves the ability of the body to move freely in extreme environments. When you have 5.12 traditional rock climbing ability and face 5.8 of ice and snow, you will certainly be more confident. safer. All these are closely related to rope operation, sense of balance, rock climbing skills, mastery and transfer of body center of gravity, coordination, climbing related muscles, risk assessment and psychological quality, etc. These are the essence of traditional climbing.