Chinese clothing cover and dew

Clothing designer Ma Ling once said: The entire history of clothing is the history of being open and covered.

The author hopes to start with the costumes of our country and analyze the “cover and dew” of the dress to provide a reflection on the development of Chinese modern clothing.

In ancient times, humans burrowed in deep forests and jungles. It was no different from all animals. The ancestors lived a primitive and naked life. Only when mankind gradually moves toward a period of civilization and sexual consciousness gradually becomes an important part of social consciousness, does people begin to block their own sensitive parts with leaves and weeds to prevent the opposite sex from paying attention to itself. However, the author believes that this so-called "occlusion" is not a negative avoidance of the opposite sex, but it is to achieve a positive attraction to the opposite sex. Obviously, when it is commonplace to ignore the innocence, the kind of mystery it generates and the gravity of the opposite sex are self-evident. If this can be regarded as the origin of human clothing, then, in the late Paleolithic period, people had initially mastered the sewing techniques, stripped the skins they had fetched, and made various kinds of clothing as required, so that the clothing gradually Formed as a fact.

What kind of "cover and dew" can achieve the greatest attraction to the opposite sex? Therefore, human beings began to experience aesthetics and aesthetics on clothing, as well as its research.

With the evolution of human clothing, in terms of human ontology, it gradually loses its adaptability and resilience to nature. If so, clothing is not only necessary to attract the opposite sex, but also necessary to keep warm and skin care. To this end, clothing has produced different styles of the four seasons, and the different types of clothing due to the division of labor. This again has a different level of design and reflection on the purpose of “covering and revealing”. The effectiveness of clothing at this time is not only for "shame", but also for the defense against cold currents and how to adapt to the needs of the production labor. However, the author thinks that this is not the main cause of the origin of clothing. Since the history of the entire costume is the history of being open and covered. So the aesthetics of covering and revealing on the garments produced a clothing culture. The clothing culture is rooted in the history of human civilization. Therefore, the “cover and dew”, the closure or the opening of clothing is naturally constrained by the times and society.

In China, after entering a long period of feudal autocratic society, the original intention of the origin of human costumes. Instead, they are more to serve their political system and cultural concepts. For example, the robes added to the emperor's dress. When the officials of the Korean civil and military officials, their wear has strict regulations and they cannot pass. As for the people, regardless of men and women, clothing has considerable restrictions. What is interesting, however, is that the origins of clothing origins in the past 100 years are looming, hidden, and often present in the cover and the dew, and they have always resisted the original intention of the origin of human costumes.

China's clothing and dress system began in Xia and Shang dynasties. During the Shang and Zhou dynasties, clothing was taken under the blouse. There are many small sleeves and long clothes and knees. Its collar, sleeves and edges have different patterns. The waist is tied with straps. In the period of Spring and Autumn and Warring States period, there appeared a kind of new clothing called "Deep Clothing". In the Qin Dynasty, costumes were still connected, with wide sleeves and gowns. The dress form was incorporated into the category of "Courtesy of Rites", showing the social connotation of the society at that time. The system is rigorous. In the feudal society, Chinese clothing is not a shelter for the invaders. It is just a carrier of the factory ceremony!

When Emperor Wu of Han Dynasty, Zhang Ting sent Zhang Shi to the Western Regions. Women of the Tang Dynasty adopted Western-style open clothing. Designed as a large sleeved blouse with a collar. However, due to the Han Dynasty's exclusive worship of Confucianism, Hu Fu failed to make a big impact. In the Wei and Jin dynasties, literati took the lead to use their clothes as the wind and their ancestral breasts as their best. As a result, it has triggered the possibility of women in the back area.

At the time of the Tang Dynasty, the opening of ideas was first reflected in women's clothing. Expressed as free, stretch, fun and other characteristics. At this time, the most representative clothing are: chest, high waist, shawl, Ming clothing, men's clothing, Hu clothes and the so-called "Shi Shi Zhuang" and so on. There was even a long dress that was worn on the upper body and on the chest. This was almost like a modern "tube top." Put on a transparent, large-sleeve blouse. With both arms exposed, the skin is looming and reminiscent.

However, the author thought that although in the Wei and Jin Dynasties there appeared to be “when the wind was untied and the chest was exposed,” in the Tang Dynasty, the ladies were even more “breast-faced and dubious dark snow” and “breast-faced and flowery” chest-high. Waist, crisp breasts half cover. After the Song Dynasty, after the Song Dynasty, first of all, under the constraints of Cheng Zhu's Neo-Confucianism, “Instinct for Heaven, Extinction, Desire”, especially: Women have been deeply involved. Suffered from the "net of material law, not called different people". The so-called "three programs and five regulars" and "three to four virtues" feudal rites imprisoned women's hands and feet and desecrated women's body and mind. In Chinese costumes, men never left the big robe boots and women did not leave their nepotism.

However, since the long history of history has flowed into the recent century, due to the invasion of Western culture, especially after entering the 1930s and 1940s, the infiltration of Western living customs has changed the social atmosphere. Women’s wear is the most prominent and dresses are also common. After chasing its source, ancient Chinese traditional clothing style is 』: clothing under the skirts form, but only by the Westerners again pass people, it seems more simplified and convenient Bale.

Especially in recent years, the moment of history has given rise to an excellent situation in China's reform and opening up. The advocacy of the Lee’s scientific outlook on development and the promotion of the people-oriented concept have also taken history into its own eyes. As a demonstration of the history of the history of human civilization, it has once again rolled a new page. With the emancipation of human nature and the pluralism of the aesthetic concept, the history of the development of the garment civilization, “cover and dew,” has been smoothly promoted.

Source: Art News